How to Make Baby Diaper Bags Step by Step

Enough of room, lots of pockets, PUL lining, adjustable strap… this diaper pocketbook has it all. Plus, most importantly for a bag that'south your constant companion for months: it's GREAT looking! In fact, it might be difficult to give upwardly this pretty purse once your infant has become a more compact traveller. Nosotros used a coordinated pair of twill-weight cottons. To this medium weight fabric, we added a fusible interfacing on all the main pieces, and the sides and bottom have the extra stability of fusible fleece. This bag is meant to stand up upwardly to heavy daily use!

Part of the appeal of this bag is the beautiful cloth combination. What you cull volition depend on the mom-and-dad-to-be and what they're looking for in terms of mode and tone. There are always lots of new fabric options to choose from each season.

There'south a handy elastic topped pocket on one side for like shooting fish in a barrel access to a bottle. The contrary side is flat, so the pocketbook lays more comfortably against yous. Information technology's prissy to have a bag without bumps and bulges on every surface.

The lining for this diaper handbag is the popular, easy-clean Polyurethane Laminate (PUL). If you're new to working with PUL, bank check out our tutorial. There are lots of inner compartments on the lining, some elasticized and some evidently, to go on all the baby'southward necessities sorted.

This project is a bit more advanced, merely we know you tin do it! Our top proffer is always to read all the way through the directions a couple times before starting. We call this "making information technology in your head."

For way and function, this diaper bag really does have it all. Make one for yourself or generate a round of spectacular ohhhs and ahhhs with the virtually popular souvenir at your next baby shower.

The bag finishes at approximately 14″ x 14″ x vi″.

Sewing Tools You lot Need

Sewing Auto and standard presser foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

one½ yards of 54″+ wide medium to heavy weight cotton wool cloth for the bag exterior and handle top
⅝ yard of 54″+ broad medium to heavy weight cotton cloth for the flap lining and handle bottom
i¼ yards of 60″+ wide of Polyurethane Laminate (PUL) for the bag lining; we used 1 ml PUL in Optic White
⅝ yard of 45″ fusible craft fleece; such as Pellon Fusible Thermolam
2 yards twenty″+ medium-weight fusible interfacing; such every bit Pellon Décor Bond
4 yards of single fold bias tape in a coordinating accent color; we used mocha
ONE vi″ 10 14″ rectangle of plastic canvas
2½ yards ¼" elastic
ONE ⅞" – i″ swivel hook for within key holder
THREE 1¼" – one½" rectangular rings
ONE 1¼" – one½" rectangular slider
ONE Magnetic Purse Clasp
All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabric and binding
Fabric marking pen or pencil
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
See-through ruler
Direct pins
Clips for PUL
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Pocket-sized safety pin
Iron and ironing board

Getting Started and Design Downloads

DOWNLOAD AND PRINT: 2 copies of our design pieces: Diaper Bag Flap Bottom, Diaper Purse Flap Top, and Diaper Bag Strap Tab, which have been bundled into 1 PDF to make the download easier. You volition use BOTH copies of the Flap design pieces, only the second Tab blueprint piece is extra and tin be recycled.
IMPORTANT: Each page in this PDF is f ONE viii½" x eleven″ sail. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
Cutting out each design along the solid lines.
Following the diagram on the Diaper Purse Flap Bottom page, barrel together the four pieces to create ane full flap pattern. Do Non overlap. Tape together.
From the fabric for the bag exterior, cut the following:
TWO 15″ loftier ten 21″ wide side panels
Ii 7″ high ten fifteen″ wide lesser panels
One 11″ loftier 10 23″ wide rectangle for the outer pocket
ONE ii½" x 44″ strip for the long strap
I two½" x 12″ strip for the short strap
ONE 3″ x 4″ rectangle for the interior key hook
Using the assembled pattern, cutting ONE flap
Using the pattern, cutting FOUR strap tabs
From the cloth for the interior highlights, cut the following:
TWO iii″ x 21″ facings
ONE 2½" x 44″ strip for the long strap
One 2½" ten 12″ strip for the short strap
Using the assembled blueprint, cutting 1 flap
From the PUL, cut the following
Two 13″ 10 21″rectangles for the side panels
Ane xi″ x 27″ rectangle for the pleated pockets
ONE 11″ 10 21″ rectangle for the flat pockets
ONE 7″ 10 15″ rectangle for the bottom panel
ONE eleven″ 10 23″ rectangle for the outer pocket
From the fusible fleece, cutting the following:
TWO 15″ x 21″ rectangles for the side panels
I 7″ x 15″ rectangle for the bottom panel
From the fusible interfacing, cut the post-obit:
TWO 3″ 10 21″ rectangles for the facings
Ane 11″ x xv″ rectangle for the outer pocket
TWO ii½" x 44″ strips for the long strap
TWO 2½" 10 12″ strips for the brusk strap
Using the assembled pattern, cutting Two flaps
Using the pattern, cut FOUR strap tabs

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Fusing

Observe the 2 15″ x 21″ outside side panels and ONE of the two seven″ x 15″ outside lesser panels. Following the manufacturer'south instructions, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of all 3 pieces.
Find the four strap strips, the four strap tabs, the two facings, and the two flaps. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse a matching interfacing piece to the incorrect side of each of these pieces.
Notice the 11″ x 23″ outer pocket piece. Place it right side down on your ironing lath, simply make sure the top and bottom edges are correctly oriented. Place the remaining 11″ x xv″ slice of fusible interfacing on the fabric, aligning the left side and the elevation and bottom edges. This volition exit the right side with just fabric showing. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place.

Straps and tabs

Match each outside strap to its coordinating inside strap (long to long, short to short).
Sew each pair together, using a ½" seam assart, leaving one end open on each for turning.
Trim the seams and clip the corners.
Turn right side out through the open up end.
Edgestitch forth the three sewn sides of each strap.
Place two of the strap tabs right sides together. Sew together, using a ½" seam assart along the sides and top. Leave the long straight border open for turning.
Trim the seams and prune the corners.
Turn right side out. Edgestitch along the sewn seam.
Repeat with the remaining two tabs.
Sideslip the tab end through a rectangular band and fold the finish over the ring just enough to allow you room to stitch the cease in identify (approximately ½").
Following the original edgestitching, stitch across the terminate to secure.
Repeat with the remaining tab and band.
Annotation: We used a 1¼" rectangular ring, which acquired our tab to take a slight get together; this matched the gathered pocket on either side. If you'd adopt a completely direct tab, become a 1½" rectangular ring (an option mentioned and linked in the supply list above).

Outer pocket and trunk of the bag

Cut a length of the single fold bias tape only a chip longer than the height edge of the outer pocket.
Unfold one border of this length of bias tape.
Pin the unmarried layer bias tape to the acme raw border of the outer pocket; the raw edges should be aligned. The wrong side of bias tape is confronting the correct side of fabric.
Sew together the bias tape in place, using a ¼" seam.
Place the outer pocket (with the bounden sewn in place) right side up on your work surface. The interfaced portion of the pocket should be on the right.
Mensurate 8½" in from the left edge and draw a vertical line. This will exist used equally a sew together line to follow to create your pocket.
NOTE: You are working on the right side of the fabric, and so make sure to use a fabric pen or pencil that washes abroad or fades with exposure to the air or the heat of an iron.
Observe the eleven″ ten 23″ rectangle of PUL for the outer pocket.
Place the PUL outer pocket and the fabric outer pocket right sides together. Pin in identify, keeping the pins within the seam allowance.
Stitch the two layers together, following along in the original bias tape seam. Remove the pins equally you go.
Fold the PUL to the back and so the two pieces are now incorrect sides together with a seam along the top border. Press in place from the forepart.
Press down the free, folded edge of the bias record.
Edgestitch forth the unabridged costless, folded border of the bias record through all the layers. You are creating a casing for the elastic.
Cut a 24″ length of elastic.
Attach a small rubber pin to one end of the rubberband and insert the rubberband into casing, threading it through until approximately ½" extends out each end. Pivot the elastic in place at each terminate.
Find one of the 2 15″ x 21″ side panels. Identify information technology right side upward on your work surface.
Identify the outer pocket slice, also right side up, on peak of the side console. Align the right sides and bottom edges of the 2 pieces. The reverse edge of the pocket will extend beyond the panel. Pin in place along the right border.
Carefully accept the ii pieces to your sewing car. Run up the 2 layers together along the drawn vertical sew line, backstitching across the casing to reinforce this point. This vertical seam line is creating the flat portion of the outer pocket.
NOTE: The extreme close-up prototype below almost makes information technology appear that there is a pause in the bias binding. That is an optical illusion. What you lot are seeing is the locked seam at the top of the pocket panel – the betoken where we finished our vertical seam line.
Have the layers dorsum to your work surface and again lay them right side upwards.
Friction match the left side of the pocket with the left edge of the side panel, and pin in place.
Along the lesser, create a box pleat to accommodate the fullness, and pin it in place.
Pull on the left side of the rubberband until gathers form and the upper edge of the pocket lays neatly confronting the side panel.
NOTE: Merely pull to assemble the left side; this will become the side panel bottle pocket. The remaining rubberband should lay flat against the side panel. Information technology is at that place to human activity equally reinforcement with simply a chip of give for the primary pocket across the back.
Machine baste the pocket to the side panel. Get-go in the left corner at the casing, stitch down, pin at the lesser left corner, stitch along the bottom border (across the pleats), pivot at the bottom left corner, stitch up to the meridian right corner of the casing. This machine basting secures the two layers to i another and secures both the elastic and the pleat in place.
Trim away the excess elastic.
Lay the remaining outside side panel correct side upwardly on your work surface. Information technology should lay in the finished direction – with the 21″ sides pinnacle and bottom and the 15″ sides left and right.
Mark a vertical stitching line 6½" in from the left edge of the console. Stitch forth the line. This stitching line will assist define a corner when you place the base of operations into position.
Identify the two side panels right sides together, adjustment the xv″ sides.
Sew along both sides through all layers, using a ½" seam allowance. This forms the body of the diaper bag (it is just an open tube at this indicate – no elevation or bottom).

Bottom of the purse

Find the two lesser panels in the exterior textile. I is fused with the fleece and one is obviously.
Place the bottom panel with the fusible fleece incorrect side upward on your work surface.
Fold under i short end (the seven″ finish) of the apparently bottom panel ½" and press.
Identify the plain fabric console, right side up, on top of the fleece panel. Align the raw edges of both pieces. The folded back edge of the plainly panel will sit ½" back from the base of operations panel's raw edge.
Baste the two pieces together along the three raw edges. The brusk side with the folded border should not be basted.
NOTE: Both sides of this panel have the fabric right side out, but the side with the folded edge (which forms a little pocket) is now considered the "wrong side" equally we move through these next few steps.
Find the body of the handbag. Plough it wrong side out.
Insert the bottom panel into the bag, adjustment the right sides of the bottom of the bag with the correct sides of the bottom panel. It's like setting a lid upside downwards into a box.
Match the corners of the bottom console to the corners of the diaper purse body. Remember, y'all can utilize that vertical sew together line to help ascertain one corner as you fix the base in place. Pin in identify all around, adjusting every bit necessary and using plenty of pins to insure the console sits in the pocketbook evenly and square.
Clip the diaper bag at the corners. You are clipping into the corner at a diagonal at a depth of nigh ⅜". This frees upward the seam allowance then y'all tin can stitch each side of the pocketbook independently.
Using a ½" seam allowance, sew the bottom panel to the trunk of the diaper bag. Commencement and stop ½" in from each corner.
Note: When you get to the side with the folded border, take intendance to non catch the folded border in the stitching. This becomes the base console pocket opening, which will allow yous to insert the stiffener that volition create the solid lesser of the purse.
Insert the plastic canvas into the lesser console 'pocket.'
Hand stitch the pocket opening closed.
Plough the diaper pocketbook right side out.
Note: If you lot are new to inseting a base of operations into a bag, bank check out our full tutorial: How to Insert a Rectangular Base of operations into a Tube.

Flap

Observe the two flap pieces and the remaining single fold bias tape.
Identify the flap lining wrong side up on your piece of work surface.
Mark the placement for the outer half of the magnetic snap three″ up from the lower edge and centered side to side. Following the manufacturer'southward instructions, or our own helpful snap tutorial, insert this half of the snap.
Observe the diaper purse body. Place it on your work surface with the front (the non-pocket side) facing up. Marker the placement for opposite half of the magnetic snap 4½" down from the upper edge and centered side to side. Over again following the manufacturer's instructions or our tutorial, insert this half of the snap.
Find the exterior flap.
Cut a length of the single fold bias tape a couple inches longer than the curved edge of the flap. The straight edge does not get bias tape.
Unfold ane edge of this length of bias record.
Pivot the single layer bias tape to the curved edge of the exterior flap. The raw unfolded edge of the bias tape should sit ¼" in from the raw edge of the flap. The wrong side of bias tape is against the right side of cloth. This is like to how you attached the bias tape to the outer pocket in a higher place except for how the bias record is prepare dorsum from the raw edge of the fabric panel.
Sew the bias tape in place, using a ½" seam allowance (½" from the raw edge of the fabric).
Place the flap lining and the flap outside correct sides together, sandwiching the bias record in between the layers. Pivot in place around the curved edge only, leaving the direct border open.
Sew the two layers together, following along in the original bias record seam.
Trim the seam back to ¼" and clip the curve.
Plow the flap right side out through the direct edge opening.
Press well, pressing down the free, folded edge of the bias tape to the front of the flap.
Edgestitch along the entire gratuitous, folded edge of the bias tape through all the layers.
Pin the flap in place on the diaper purse, right sides together. The flap is positioned against the back of the bag body, the side with the outer pocket. Align the raw edges of the flap and the handbag body, and center the flap side to side within the panel
Find the two strap tabs.
Pin ane to each side of the bag body. Each tab should be positioned so the raw edges of the tab and the raw edges of the pocketbook trunk are aligned and the tab is centered side to side within each side section. When each tab is in position, there should be most i″ of infinite between the flap and the strap tab.

Inside pockets from the PUL

Collect all the remaining PUL pieces.
Detect the 11″ 10 27″ panel. Fold down ½" along one 27″ side. Topstitch ⅜" from the folded edge to form a small casing. Mark the panel for pockets: place the first vertical line 8½" in from the left raw edge and a second line ix″ from this first line.
Cut a 28″ length of rubberband.
Attach a small safety pivot to one end. With this end, thread the elastic into the casing and pull information technology through until there is about ½" extending from each stop. Pin the rubberband in place at each terminate. The pocket unit of measurement should still lay apartment at this point.
Observe one of the xiii″ x 21″ PUL side panels. Mark this console for pocket placement: place the first line 6½" from the left raw border and the 2d line 7″ from this first line.
Place the 11″ x 27″ panel with elastic over the 13″ x 21″ console marked for pocket placement. Both pieces should be correct sides facing up (marked sides facing upwards). The lesser edges of the ii pieces should exist fifty-fifty.
Align the commencement line on the bottom panel with the outset line on the tiptop panel and pin in place.
Stitch forth the drawn lines through both layers, dorsum stitching across the rubberband to secure it at this bespeak.
Marshal the left edges of the two pieces of PUL and pin in identify. Unpin the rubberband at the left and gently pull, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Re-pin the rubberband in place.
Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to suit the lower fullness. Machine baste along the side and across the bottom of the pocket. Trim excess rubberband.
Align the 2nd set of marked vertical lines, the lower edges should still exist even. Pin in place. Unpin the rubberband at the right and gently pull, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Re-pin the elastic in identify. Sew forth the marked vertical line through both layers, back stitching across the elastic. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to adjust the lower fullness and auto baste in place along the bottom edge, stopping at the right-nigh vertical stitch line.
Finally, align the right edges and pin in identify. Pull the elastic from the correct again, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine drip along the bottom and up the side of the pocket. Trim the excess elastic.

Notation: You can wait until all the pockets are adjusted and pinned then do simply one line of automobile basting. We did it in steps for those who are new to working with the slippery-ness of PUL. Doing it in stages insures your pockets stay exactly in position.
Fold down ½" along one long side of the eleven″ x 21″ PUL panel. Topstitch ⅜" from the folded edge to class a small-scale casing.
Cutting a 22″ length of elastic.
Attach a small safe pivot to ane stop. With this terminate, thread the elastic into the casing with about ½" extending from each end.The pocket unit should lay flat. Pin the elastic in place at each terminate.
Mark the panel for pockets: place the first line 6½" from the left edge and a second line 7″ from this first line.
Find the remaining 13″ x 21″ PUL panel. Marking information technology for pocket placement: placing the offset line 6½" from the left edge and a second line 7″ from this kickoff line.
Place the eleven″ 10 21″ elastic casing panel over the xiii″ 10 21″ panel with both panels right sides facing upwardly. Align the sides and lower edges, and automobile baste in identify along both sides and beyond the bottom.
Align the marked vertical pocket lines on both pieces and pin in place. Stitch forth these marked lines through both layers, back stitching beyond the elastic. Trim the ends of the elastic flush.
Note: For this pocket unit, the elastic acts as a stabilizer, but is not gathered.
Place the ii PUL lining panels right sides together and stitch the side seams with a ½" seam.
With the lining unit nonetheless wrong side out, insert and sew the lining lesser panel into the lining body, post-obit the same steps yous used above to attach the principal bottom panel to the main bag. Remember, we have full tutorial: How to Insert a Rectangular Base into a Tube.

Key hook and facing

Detect the 3″ x 4″ tab piece. Fold under both 4″ sides ½" and printing.
Fold the tab in half so the two folded edges align. Pin in place. Edgestitch forth the double folded edges to secure. Run a second line of edgestitching forth the reverse unmarried folded side.
Insert ane raw end of the tab through the swivel hook. Fold dorsum the raw end ½" and printing, then fold an additional ½" and printing again, encasing the raw edges and forming a small hem. Stitch the hem in identify as close to the hook as possible.
Find the two 3″ x 21″ facing pieces.
Place them right sides together, pinning along the 3″ sides.
Stitch each side seam, using a ½" seam assart, to create a ring. Press the seam allowances open. Turn the ring right side out.
Pin the primal hook tab on the right side of the facing, three″ in from one side seam and with the raw edges of the hook tab and the facing aligned. Auto baste the tab in place approximately ⅜" from the raw edge.
Find the lining handbag. Information technology should exist wrong side out.
With the facing still right side out, skid it into the lining bag so the two layers are now correct sides together. Align the meridian border of the facing (the edge with the tab basted in identify) to the upper edge of the lining. Adjust the band all around, matching the seams. The ring should lay nice and flat against the lining. The tab should sit down in a higher place the gathered pockets.
Sew the facing to the lining all around, using a ½" seam allowance.
Finger printing the lining ring upward and away from the lining bag. The seam allowance should be pressed upwards towards the facing. Edgestitch all around to secure the seam allowance in this up position. Stay every bit close as possible to the seam on the facing. Recall, you lot don't want to use an fe on the PUL. Finger press or apply a pressing textile.

Finishing

With the body of the diaper handbag wrong side out and the lining correct side out, slide the lining inside the bag – so the two pieces are now nested and right sides together.
Match upwards the pinnacle raw edges all around (the raw edge of the facing with the raw edge of the outside torso of the handbag). Marshal seams and the corners of the bottom panels. The flap and strap tabs are sandwiched between the layers.
Using a ½" seam allowance, sew together the lining to the diaper bag along the upper border. Leave about a 5″ opening along the dorsum edge for turning the bag.
Turn the diaper bag correct side out. Push the lining down within the purse, poking the corners of the lining's lesser panel into the corners of the bag and so the bottom lays as flat equally possible. Pull up the flap and pull the strap tabs up into place.
Press, making sure the raw edges of your opening are pressed in so they are flush with the sewn seam.
With the flap and tabs upwardly and out of the style, edgestitch around the top of the handbag, closing the opening you used for turning and finishing the top of the handbag (nosotros started and stopped our seam behind ane of the strap tabs).

Assemble the adjustable strap

Notice the long and short straps, the remaining rectangle ring, and the slider.
Insert the raw end of the short strap through the band. Fold dorsum the raw border ½" and press, then fold an additional ½" and printing over again, encasing the raw edges and forming a small hem. Sew together the hem in place as close to the band as possible.
Insert the raw end of the long strap through the slider, going around the eye bar. As higher up, fold the raw edge under ½" and and then fold ½" once more and stitch in place as close to the center bar as possible.
Place the short strap on the correct with its ring facing left (the strap is right side upward). Place the long strap on the left with the with the slider too facing to the left. This strap is right side downwardly.
Pass the finished end of the long strap through the top of the ring. Go in from the bottom and come out over the top.
Flip the slider over so the total rectangle is visible.
Thread the finished cease of the long strap through the slider, going from right to left, up and over the center bar.
Adjust the strap to your desired length.

Note: If you are having problem wrapping your head around these steps, have a await at our Adjustable Strap Tutorial (or open your lingerie drawer – most bra straps are made in the same manner.)
Looking at the assembled handbag from the front, attach the brusque strap on the right and the long strap on the left.
To attach, simply slip the finished end of the strap through the ring of the strap tab, fold the end to the dorsum approximately ½" and stitch in place. Repeat to attach the second strap.

Contributors

Project Blueprint: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler

rockwellefolotervis.blogspot.com

Source: https://sew4home.com/big-beautiful-diaper-bag-with-adjustable-strap-lots-of-pockets/